Chic Before Her Time: The Royal Fashion Legacy of Maharani Chimnabai II of Baroda

We are swimming in an era of influencers commanding our lifestyle choices. But history has been witness to the influence of the Indian Maharanis, and their refined tastes are still spoken about even today. They had the wealth, power, and exposure that made them stand out. When thinking about queens who championed understated chic that remains relevant even in this day and age, it’s Maharani Gayatri Devi (1919–2009) of Jaipur who comes to mind. But long before her, it was her maternal grandmother, Maharani Chimnabai II (1872–1958) of Baroda, who was famous for her choice of jewellery and sarees.

Chimnabai II was the second wife of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad of Baroda. They had a daughter, Indira Devi (1892-1968), who became the Maharani of Cooch Behar after her wedding to Maharaja Jitendra Narayan.

Chimnabai had a jaw-dropping collection of sarees. Among them was a Paithani Navari or Nauvari saree in black with real gold zari, which was also recently worn by Maharani Radhikaraje Gaekwad at Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s 25th anniversary celebration.

But that’s not all. Baroda was one of the richest princely states. According to Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India by Angma Dey Jhala, as Vogue India states, "Chimnabai of Baroda had a covetable personal collection that held pieces previously owned by Russian grand dukes and from her extensive foreign trips to Europe, where she’d be accompanied by an Indian craftsman or Baroda’s senior court jeweller at all times."

This not only helped her acquire genuine jewellery, but she also actively promoted the Indian gem trade. She had invited the French jeweller Jacques Cartier to Baroda in 1911. Some of the most exotic jewellery was crafted by Cartier for the royal family of Baroda.

It is said that legendary diamonds, ropes of perfect pearls, gem-encrusted carpets, golden carriages, and bejewelled elephants — when Jacques Cartier visited Baroda in 1912, he was greeted with treasures beyond his wildest imagination.

A priest once described the Maharani during his visit to the state of Baroda. Angma Dey Jhala, in Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India, writes, "The Maharani is of middle height, but carries her head so proudly and yet so gracefully that she appears taller than she really is. Her carefully kept and abundant hair is hidden by a sari of white silk shot with gold, which falls over the perfect outline of her exquisite figure and is gathered between the knees, showing the ankles circled with pearls and the small bare feet, which are as beautifully kept as her hands. It was not till I had been with her for some time that I noticed the collar of emeralds as large as pigeons’ eggs round her neck, and the chain of priceless pearls that falls from her shoulders to the waist."